All Cook Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.